Waves, Beaches, and Coastline Dynamics

Catalog description

Oceanographic and geologic processes responsible for the evolution of nearshore features; fluid motions of many time scales in the nearshore environment, including waves and currents. Conceptual basis for models of how fluid motions interact with the shape of the beach and bed in the surf zone, giving rise to features such as beach cusps, bars, channels, and barrier islands. Various attempted engineering and coastal management solutions to the global retreat of shorelines.